How It Was Made: Winter Soldier
January 18, 2015
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This session will cover the creation of a replica Bucky Barnes Winter Soldier costume from the second Captain America movie. This costume was originally created for DragonCon 2014 and some updates were made after that for Kastucon 2015.

As with most of my builds, I began with a basic pattern block and created the initial patterns in muslin. I don’t have any images of that process for this costume, but you can see a similar process on the threads for Captain America, Flash and Daredevil.

Once I had my base patterns, I created a mock up in similar fabrics to send to the client for fittings.

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This costume is being made in 3 main pieces: a vest, a short undershirt with the one ‘jacket’ sleeve and pants. Here are some pictures from the mock up fitting of the vest and shirt.

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With the fitting completed and the pattern finalized, I was able to begin work on the upper part of the costume. I began with the vest. The vest is made of a cordovan color faux leather. with insets of black faux leather and padded fabric. The main faux leather was srayed with black NuLife and then rubbed down in stages to create the distressed look of the film costume.

I began with the right side and back of the vest. The right side only extends to the end of the collar as the left side with the tabs will overlap this section. The lower back section is made of strips that will be backed with black cotton. This will create the ‘vent’ effect of the back of the actual jacket. The small silver accents on the costume are created using an upholstery vinyl with a brushed stainless steel finish.

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The left side of the jacket was made using the right side as a base pattern. The front was extended and the whole thing was cut into even strips across the width of the piece. The image below shows the final pattern for the left side of the front.

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The faux was cut and assembled, the corners trimmed and Super77 was used on the back side to glue down all the edges so that they would stay flat and even for stitching. Then, the side insets were added and the facing was laid into the front so that all the edges could be top stitched. The image below is slightly out of order as it shows the vest when it was complete. However, with the front laid flat, the seams and stitching are clearly visible.

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Below are images of the facing pattern and sewn into the front. The pattern was extended to cover the entire inside of the front and the cotton facing was sewn in as a solid piece. This gave the front the appearance of being separate strips but kept them all permanently aligned and eliminated the risk of gaps during movement.

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Next, the undershirt was created. The undershirt only came to just below the chest and was primarily just a device to hold the upper front and collar and the right sleeve. Here are images of the shirt by itself.

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And, images of the shirt and vest together after the final round of NuLife painting and distressing.

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Once the top was done, I moved on to the pants. The pants were made from a slim-fit commercial pattern that I added seams into. Due to time, I wasn’t able to get pictures of the construction process, but here are some images of the pants and the details that were included.

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Here are some images of the completed costume as it appeared at Dragon Con 2014.

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