A client contacted me wanting to have a new Steve Rogers Cap costume built but he wanted it in the style of the Avengers Cap costume (with all the piecing and top-stitched seams).
Based on the reference images he sent me – two of which are above – I created the following rendering for his version. The blue areas will be made in Cordura and the grey areas will be made of jumbo spandex to allow for added movement and to mimic the stretch areas of the Avengers suit. Also, the grey in the rendering is ment only to show the location of the insets – the spandex will be the same navy blue as the Cordura.
Once the design was approved by the client I began working on the pattern. In order to create the pieces and insets, I first created a basic fitted top on a dummy that was adjusted to the client’s measurements. Once the muslin blank was completed, I used the rendering and drew out the style lines on the muslin.
The next step is to cut the marked-up blank apart and use it to draft the paper patterns.
The second image above shows the “stars & bars” shoulder section laid out flat as it will be created in a single piece to be sewn into the top. The third image above shows the short sleeve from the blank being extended to full length for the pattern.
With the pattern complete, I needed to make a mock-up of the top to send off for fitting. I used some heavy canvas and white jumbo spandex for the mock-up to try to get as close as possible to the actual weight and amount of stretch that the final suit will have. This will give the most accurate fitting. The images below show the top mock-up as it was being assembled as well as the fully assembled mock-up.
The last step here was to add in a zipper and the mock-up was ready to send off to the client for a fitting.
Next, I moved on to prepping the pants pattern. I first built some basic, fitted pants in muslin and drew on the style lines.
Just like the top, the muslin pants were cut apart and a patternwas made from them. Then a mock-up was constructed and sent off for fitting.
Once the client fit both pieces and sent back reference photos of the mock-ups, I was able to make adjustments to the patterns where needed and begin cutting the actual garments. I began with the pants.
This image shows the pants during construction. You can see the right leg laid open with the red/white side stripe sewn in to the front. Note that the pattern is slightly different in the thigh. After the fitting, we decided that those pieces needed to be adjusted. The next image shows some of the detail in the piecing and stitching of the pants.
The assembled pants:
Now, on to the top. The first thing that needed to be done for the top was the chest band with the “stars & bars”. I created this by cutting and stitching the white stripes into the blue background. First, I drew out the entire piece on paper, then cut out the individual sections and marked them for assembly. Once that was done, I traced each piece onto the blue (or white) fabric and cut it out adding in seam allowance.
The stripes were sewn in the way that all the other pieces of the suit were sewn and the all of the blue was top-stitched in the interior of the piece. The top-stitching around the edges had to be left until the band was sewn into the rest of the top.
This image shows the chest piece sewn into the shoulder section of the top and the shoulder and center stars placed.
Here is the top assembled so far.
And wider shots of the top and pants:
From here, I need to add the collar, the waistband on the pants and finish the hems/add the closures.
The suit was completed and delivered to the client, who had rave reviews upon trying it on. He sent a “teaser” picture of the costume as he completes the rest of the accessories and promises more photos soon.